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Three London wine professionals interviewed by Livingetc say a thin stem is not a universal measure of a good wine glass. They point instead to balance, rim thickness, bowl shape and whether the glass suits the wine and dining setting.
Three London restaurateurs and wine professionals told Livingetc that a wine glass does not need a thin stem to serve wine well, challenging the idea that delicate stemware is automatically superior. Their advice puts more weight on the glass’s balance, rim and bowl, as well as whether its design fits the wine and the setting.
Michael Mackenzie, who leads on wine at Poon’s at Somerset House, said stem thickness alone does not determine quality. He described the overall feel and balance of a glass, including the stem’s length and how it feels in the hand, as important. A glass should be pleasant to hold and should not distract from the wine, he said.
Mackenzie also emphasized the size and curve of the bowl, which affect how a drinker encounters a wine’s qualities. After trying a range of glasses for the restaurant, he selected the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass as a fit for his criteria. He also pointed to antique glasses with thicker, decorative stems as examples of designs suited to special occasions.
Anna Patrowicz, head of drinks at Akub, said she personally likes thin stems for their elegant appearance, but argued that glassware should suit the restaurant’s decor and practical conditions. At Akub, the team chose glasses that were less delicate and worked with the restaurant’s organic table surfaces. For Patrowicz, the rim should be as thin as possible, while the bowl should hold a 125-milliliter pour with enough room to swirl the wine. She named the Zalto Universal Wine Glass as a dependable choice.
Abe Drewery, co-founder and wine expert at Teal by Sally Abé, also favors thinner stems, but described a good glass in terms of aroma, appearance and enjoyment rather than stem alone. His preferred option is the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass, which he said works for white, red and sparkling wine. The three professionals offered personal preferences and restaurant-specific choices, not a single standard that applies to every drinker or occasion.
Choosing Glasses Beyond the Stem
The advice matters for diners choosing glassware at home because it separates a common visual cue—an especially thin stem—from features the interviewees connect more directly with use. Rim and bowl design, balance and comfort can shape the drinking experience, while a glass that feels right for a formal meal may be less suitable for a busy restaurant or a casual table.
The experts do not establish that a particular glass changes every wine’s taste in a measurable way. Their comments are professional assessments drawn from restaurant service and personal preference. For shoppers, the practical takeaway is to consider what wine the glass is intended for and how it will be used, rather than treating stem delicacy as a quality test.
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How Three Restaurants Choose Stemware
The Livingetc report focuses on glassware decisions at three London venues: Poon’s at Somerset House, Akub and Teal by Sally Abé. Their different settings help explain why the interviewees do not offer one shared ideal. Mackenzie discussed balance and proportion; Patrowicz described selecting glasses to suit Akub’s tables and atmosphere; Drewery highlighted aroma and versatility.
The report names a preferred glass from each professional, but those recommendations are individual selections rather than a comparative product test. It does not report laboratory measurements, blind tasting results or a formal assessment of how the products perform across different wines. Its central finding is therefore about the criteria these professionals value, not proof that one design is objectively best.
“What is key is the overall feel and balance of the wine glass, including the stem length and the tactile impression of the stem on your fingers.”
— Michael Mackenzie, wine lead at Poon’s at Somerset House
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No Universal Glass Standard
The interviews do not settle whether a thinner rim or a particular bowl measurably improves the experience for all wines and drinkers. Livingetc presents the restaurateurs’ professional opinions and preferred products, but provides no controlled comparison or independent testing of the named glasses. The report also does not give a publication date in the supplied material.
Individual preference remains part of the answer: Patrowicz and Drewery favor thin stems, while Mackenzie says stem thickness is not decisive and values the whole design. The source does not specify the exact dimensions or materials of each recommended glass, or assess durability, price or suitability for every home setting.
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Match the Glass to Its Use
The report points readers toward a practical decision rather than a single winning product: consider the wine, the bowl’s capacity and shape, the rim, comfort in the hand and the setting where the glass will be used. The three named glasses—Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy, Zalto Universal and Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal—are recommendations from the interviewees, not a ranked list.
Livingetc provides no scheduled follow-up, new product announcement or further testing. Readers comparing options would need to consult retailers or manufacturers for current specifications and availability, then decide whether a delicate or sturdier design better suits their own table.
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Key Questions
Do wine glasses need thin stems to be good?
No. The three professionals interviewed by Livingetc said stem thickness is not a universal measure of quality. They emphasized other features, including balance, the rim and the bowl.
What did the restaurateurs say matters most?
Their priorities varied, but included overall balance and comfort, a thin rim, enough bowl space for swirling, and a design that suits the wine and dining setting.
Which wine glasses did they recommend?
Michael Mackenzie named the Schott Zwiesel Vina Burgundy Glass; Anna Patrowicz cited the Zalto Universal Wine Glass; and Abe Drewery recommended the Richard Brendon x Jancis Robinson Universal Glass. These are personal professional picks, not results of a comparative test.
Does glass shape affect how wine tastes?
The report says bowl size and curvature matter to the tasting experience, and the interviewees discuss how glasses can help present aromas. It does not provide controlled evidence quantifying the effect for particular wines or drinkers.
Source: rss
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